名宴 Famous Banquet : 彦武高球俱乐部经典名宴 Orna Golf and Coutry Resort Classic Banquet

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彦武高球俱乐部经典名宴

月底，彦武高尔夫球乡村俱乐部总经理，张文丰来电，说要办场经典名宴，邀我出席。去了方知，那是场类似满汉全席精选，只不过分段进行，着重化腐朽为神奇，不在昂贵材料。

At the end of the month, Orna Golf and Country Club general manager, Mr. Zhang called me, said wanted to organize a classic banquet, invited me to attend. After I attend the feast, I knew that it was a formal banquet like Manchu Han Imperial Feast. Pay more attention on turn the ordinary ingredients into a rare and ethereal dish, but not focus on the expensive ingredients.

能受邀主席，跟马六甲首长特别秘书，拿督黄文钦太平局绅、马来西亚广东联合会总会长，拿督陈展鹏、创会理事长，准拿督李金殿局绅、各会馆领导及后座各报经理，齐聚一堂，自是开心事。不是什么国宴也不会面孔严肃，所以没有心理负担，放宽谈笑风生。

The guests at that day were Special Assistant to Chief Minister of Melaka, Datuk Vong Woon Chin, JP, President of The Federation of Kwang Tung Associations Dato Tan, The founding Board Director Dato’ Lee, many presidents of associations and newspaper managers. Everyone gather in this banquet was a kind of thing that worth to happy.

最大卖点是每出道菜，司仪会依足书上写的讲解典故、材料及做法，不会离谱。唯一不足，是当天喝的是红酒，如果换上中国佳酿，来配自家菜肴更佳。

The most unique selling proposition was when every dish was put on table, emcee would followed the description on books and explained to every guest about the dish’s allusions, materials and cooking method. The only shortcoming was we drank red wine, if change to Chinese wine will be better. 

翡翠瑶柱蔬，是先把干贝放进挖空黄瓜，入馅，弄成状似翡翠扳指，再以香菇、蒜粒、西兰花，乌白碧绿相间，放入大蒸炉中，炊之，每人一粒。极馨逸玉润，此菜因清朝同治皇帝授意而成，菜因人而贵。

Emerald Scallop with vegetables, first, put the scallop into the cucumber that already hollowed out, made it like a shape of jade ring. Then put the mushrooms, garlics, broccoli together and into the big steamer. This dish was originated Dynasty Qing Tong Zhi Emperor. 

松鼠鳜鱼，中国有本古食谱“调鼎集”，记载，用松鼠鱼，取鱼肚皮、去骨、划上花纹，拖蛋黄炸到形似松鼠，再淋糖醋卤汁，只是不在当令鱼季，改用七星斑，不但矜贵，意头也好。“升班”好比考试升级，是苏州松鹤楼膳菜，自古便有，而今甚少人会烧出如斯佳味。

Squirrel-shaped Mandarin fish, China ancient recipe recorded that using Mandarin Fish and remove it’s stomach skin, bones and cut some pattern on fish body, fried into squirrel shaped with egg yolk and pour sweet and sour gravy on it. Because it was not the mandarin fish seasons, so changed into emperor fish. 

常熟叫化鸡，是常熟县城西北虞山圣地的“山景园”菜馆，根据叫化子，以涂上黄泥，柴烤的鸡，入火中烤熟的传说，效法制成。选的是土鸡，腹内填满北芪、当归、玉竹、枸杞、党参，再以面粉团封好，烘透，汁味收足，爽滑脆嫩兼备。

Chang Shu Beggars Chicken, the restaurants that located in District Chang Shu Yu Mountain northwest “ Hill View Gardens” according to the legend about the beggars set up the firewood to cook to chicken with mud shell and followed the cooking method. Inside the chicken stomach full-filled with Bei Qi, angelica, Yu Zhu, Chinese wolfberry, codonopsis and sealed the chicken body with flour, dried it, to make the gravy absorb and the meat became smooth. 

博山豆腐箱，是把水豆腐蒸透，去掉水气后，再炸，然后用小刀在面上隔开三份二，像盖子，掏空里面后，把鸡、虾米、木耳、胡萝卜、大葱全切成丁。加鸡蛋清、精盐、蚝油、糖、全炒进箱子内，再蒸熟。另在炒锅内，置高汤、花雕酒、盐、酱油、湿淀粉埋芡，浇上。俊在滑嫩适口，味鲜而美，是清朝“博山厨师第一人”张登科，路经博山“庆和聚”在卖完材料后，灵感所作的一道箱式菜。

Bo Shan Tofu, steamed the tofu and fried, use small knife to dig a hole on middle, like a lid. Cut the chicken, shrimp, fungus, carrots, green onion, carrot, onion and fried with egg white, salt, sugar. Put into the tofu and steamed until cooked. Boiled broth, Chinese wine, salt, soy sauce, cornstarch in another pot and pour on the tofu. This dish created by Bo Shan Chef “ Zhang Deng Ke”. 

胡蒜烤明虾,蒜蓉是一般菜肴不可缺少的。将蒜泥、盐、生抽及花雕酒，入锅爆炒后，放在明虾上面煎，是日本料理铁板烧常用的一种形式，尤其在韩国更爱蒜。听说，能预防疾病，提高免疫能力。

Garlic grilled prawns, stir-fried garlic, salt, soy sauce, Chinese wine and grilled prawn on it. 

四川樟茶鸭，讲究的是用茶叶和香料以及樟木屑，以树叶熏烤的功夫，而彦武师傅的以粤、川手艺见称。

Smoked Tea Duck Sichuan Style, important in tea, spices and camphor wood, smoked the duck with leaves.

老罕王包儿饭，以前没吃过。虾仁用盐、蛋清拌一下，然后跟带子、冬菇茸、松子粒、荸荠，同爆香炒饭。吃时，用生菜叶包成饭团，对这种取自老罕王，努尔哈赤，行军时，吃饭的形式。司仪在台上刻意着墨，为的只是想增加一些用餐寓意的效果。不知是不是我牙齿较利，一直咬到松子，难怪这么香。

Old Han Wang pack rice, I didn’t taste it before. The shrimp mixed with salt, egg white and stir-fried with scallop, mushrooms, pine nuts, water chestnut and rice. Use vegetables to roll it into onigiri. 

最后是白果龟苓膏收宴。

Final dish was ginkgo chilled herbal jelly. 

类似这种筵宴，看过不少，有的专食贵东西，有者专挑食材或讲排场，名厨工艺试遍，对唐、宋、元、明、清，名馔复古的五朝宴，就是未曾尝过，很期待，能见着那些古老又失传的食谱，荣焉。就是不能恭维，那些不中不西的融汇菜（FUSION），拜托，只要能将老祖宗留下的菜做好，已是一绝。只有没能力的人，才会拼命搞新花样，买广告自卖自夸。

I have been saw a lot of banquet such this, some was eating expensive foods, some was use for ingredients that rare to see, I felt very glad to taste those food followed the recipe that pass from ancient time and nearly lost. But I don’t like fusion dishes. 

18/2/2017