嘉林海番村辣椒螃蟹 Restoran Orang Asli Kah Ling Chili Crab

马来西亚国家文化遗产美食 @ 嘉林海番村:辣椒螃蟹 National Cultural Heritage of Food @ Restoran Orang Asli Kah Ling: Chili Crab

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海番辣椒螃蟹 Chili Crab

   2009年,马新针对肉骨茶、海南鸡饭、辣椒螃蟹专利权爆发争议。加上美国电视网CNN介绍全球50大美食,新加坡分别是排名第35的辣椒螃蟹和45名海南鸡饭上榜,这得归功网络传播,使这两种美食在国际享有盛誉。先勿论辣椒螃蟹源自哪国,重要是谁把该美食发扬。

   In year 2009, Malaysia and Singapore argued about the patent rights of Bak Kut The, Hainan Chicken Rice and Chili Crab. CNN also introduced world’s Top 50 foods which is the chili crabs at place 35th and Hainan Chicken rice at place 45th belongs to Singapore. Thanks to the spread of the network, make these two kind of food famous in international/. We do not argue about the chili crabs come from which country, it is important now to carry forward the food.




       在本土,因区域原生食材,约卅年前,柔佛新山靠海原住民,经已把辣椒螃蟹,再创,添加马来沙爹酱的花生碎,称之叁峇辣椒螃蟹。

     In Malaysia, because of this area contain natural ingredient, about 30 years ago, indigenous people near to the sea in Johor Bahru had been made the secondary innovation of chili crab into sambal crab by adding Malay Satay sauces and chopped peanut.


         在当时,新山吃海鲜的水域有四处,巧是,每地都有四家靠海高脚的海鲜屋或海鲜村,大多是后来华人经营,其中Kg Sungai Temon的嘉林,左邻因为Salim关系,从那学的煮法再演变,而不再单一属于海番这族群。至于,原创的Kampung Sungai Temon 海番族长Salim,随其后发扬的Pasir Putih村长海番明不再做,故嘉林算是第一个炒海番辣椒蟹的华人师傅。

         On that time, there are four places to eat seafood in Johor Bahru. Every places have four seafood villages or seafood restaurants which are built on the sea, almost them operate by Chinese. One of the restaurant Kg Sungai Simon, Restaurant Orang Asli Kah Ling, he learned the cooking method of Chili crab from Salim and developed a new taste of Chili crab.  After the original authors which are village headman of Kg Sungai Temon Salim and village headman of Pasir Putih closed their restaurant, now  Kah Ling is the first Chinese chef cook for the Chili Crab.

         以前试过其味,确实不如现在蛋香浓郁,因新国又从嗜辣改成偏甜,海番蟹以印尼肉蟹代之,只能说改的更适合现代大众口味。

   Previously, I  have been tried it’s taste, now the taste is more egg-rich, because of the Singapore, the taste changed from spicy to sweet, sea crabs instead of Indonesia Crab, I can only say the changes are more suitable for modern public taste.



风烛残年的海番村
The aboriginal villages that have one foot in the grave

还记得昔日村里海番,有者也学华人拜神、甚至起乩、吃山猪脚跟娘惹接近。原住民小孩会在涨潮潜入水里,把扔下钱币找回,甚至长时间闭息在海里扮水鬼。

I could still remember the old village, that time, some of the aboriginals learned Chinese to worship and some act as medium or shaman, they also eat pork same as nyonya. The aboriginal kids also will dive into sea when rising tide, find the coin that they throw inside the sea or even hold breathe under the water for long time.


 在这,尚能看到养殖场,对面是新加坡蔡厝港。待到夜晚或许见著小船挑灯捕虾。白天只能目眺填沙区跟未建竣大厦,仅残留下是角头暂且保住的画面。

   Now, I still could see the aquafarm, opposite was Singapore Choa Chu Kang. Stay until night, you maybe will see the boat catching the shrimp. At day, you can only see the sand-filling area with the building that not completed, here only left a remaining village site that haven’t demolish.


        依斯干达区的发展,使它难逃厄运,八户靠海捕鱼原住民、四家临岸搭建的高脚海鲜村拆迁。需知柏林未有之前,已经存在,当时没陆路,只能靠丽都海边划小舢舨过来。而这村落,原本是从Kampung Bakar Batu 迁移而至,莅临人客,只会单纯选择“辣椒与黑椒”而已。

         The development of Iskandar area, make this village difficult to escape the fate of demolish. There are eight family of aboriginals that make a living by fishing, four family that built in high-footed will undergo demolition. Before Perling exist, this village already exist, there was no land before, only rely to sampan to go over there. This village originally migrate from Kampung Bakar Batu, the visit guest also simply choose to eat the crab in “chili and black pepper” only.


黑椒螃蟹 Black Pepper Crab

螃蟹斩块泡油,再把蒜米、砂拉越黑胡椒粉、白胡椒末、大葱、芫茜、辣椒、咖喱叶以牛油、校糖、黑酱油下高汤焖香,原味,海番则有用班兰叶,抬出来样子,又黑又结实,干带香,是人见了都想咬一口。

Crab chopped into pieces, add in garlic, Sarawak black pepper, white pepper, onions, parsley, chili, curry leaves, butter, sugar, dark soy sauce and stew in soup stock. If aboriginals will use pandan leaf. The crabs look black, dry and fragrant, can’t wait to taste it.


咸蛋蟹 Salted egg Crab

肥蟹,用咸蛋黄、蒜蓉、辣椒仔、咖喱叶、糖兜炒,后调耗油、生抽、白糖。剥开壳,黄膏全黏上咸蛋的惹味,思春期名副其实香到饱。看来,要收我律师信,告他美食迫害。

Crab fry with salted egg, garlic, chili, curry leaf and sugar. The seasoning are oyster sauce, soy sauce and sugar. Open it’s shell, the crab butter stick with salted egg, full of aroma.


干香蟹 Dry Crab

咔嚓斩件,老板容金城坚持用自己煮法,将咖喱粉、咖喱叶、叁峇、虾米、辣椒干,炒混椰汁生奶,高汤收汁。焖到叫救命的咖喱香在镬内大噪,评它胜在自研咖喱调味,跟干香全两回事,管他,我的嘴,已准备为它服务。

Cut crab into pieces, the boss adhere to his own cooking method, use curry powder, curry leaves, sambal, shrimps, dry chili and coconut milk. Stew with soup stock until the essence of curry can’t wait to spread out. It wins at the curry seasoning, out of topic of dry crab. But I don’t mind, my mouth, ready to serve it.


清蒸膏蟹 Steamed Roe Crab

满满的膏蒸得够香软,只是姜丝、蛋白作料,“先趴下,别动”,细嚼其味,活像睡着。试想想?那黄澄澄的卵,好香,与活生生炊熟的肉交织,是种怎样滋味,那是种它活著想看到自己死期的渴望呀!

Full of roe and steamed until soft, only use ginger and egg white, when I chew it, just like fall in sleep. Try to think, the yellowish crab butter, fragrance, taste with cooked meat.


印尼馒头虾 Indonesia prawn with fry buns

上面飘着层辣椒油,载浮载沉海捉的草虾,在狂剥新鲜下,喝口咖喱汤,刺激!No!这只不过是先制造点开胃效果。炒混咖喱料迫进椰浆生奶提炼出既有咖喱香浓又有生奶的美滋,掰点油炸馒头配之,拼了。

A layer of pepper oil float above it, the prawn float in it, after I remove it’s shell, drink the curry soup, is it stimulate your taste buds? No ! Just create an appetizer effect. Fried curry ingredient and forced it to mix with coconut milk, extracted out both curry and milk fragrance, match with fried buns, marvelous!


阿叁鱼 Asam Fish

石斑鱼块淋上姜花、辣椒仔、黄姜等煮的阿叁液,覆盖是黄梨、羊角豆、番茄、红辣椒,异常爽口开胃,虽说阿叁,看不出其风味,不是泰式也不算是娘惹或马来阿叁,反倒成了特色。

Grouper fish pieces topped with asam soup that contained ginger lily, chili, ginger, covered with pineapple, ladyfinger, tomatoes, red chili, appetizing! Although the name is Asam, but it not same as Asam, also not count as Thai, nyonya or malay asam, flavorful.




海番辣椒螃蟹 Chili Crab

最后压阵才是辣椒螃蟹。

酸甜芡滑、润度蛋香兼容。配上成熟螃蟹,饱满油足,因缘下,刚巧收到峡口本地蟹。这是淡咸水海域,红树林区提供了浮游生物和藻类保育,故蟹壮且带香芬。这就是新山螃蟹的说法。一如中国阳澄湖的大闸蟹驰名,现已被中国大妈视作珍馐抢购,换我们改吃过番肉蟹,幸好场景未改。还记得最初配额是白面包、白馒头,现,炸,又换了。

Last is Chili Crab.
Sweet and sour, tender and full of fragrance of egg, match with mature crab, fat and full of meat. Here is the brackish sea water area, the mangrove area provides the conservation of plankton and algae, so the crabs are fat with fragrance. I remember previously chili crab eat with white bread, now is fry buns.

嘉林海番村老板容金城                             世界美食大師食公子                              马来西亚国会上议院议员谢松清

指示 Instruction
      
  Tampoi 沿着Skudai Kiri 方向,经湖滨酒楼,跟Gelang Patah 指示上天桥,顺着Kampung Sungai Danga,便会看到Taman Laguna 路牌左拐进高级住宅区,直驶到小交通圈,左弯进Jalan Seri Laguna 2 ,到尾。原本荒芜,经开墾后,已没原来大芭风貌。
   不想抱憾终生,去看看吧!

       From Tampoi, follow the direction of Skudai Kiri, passing Grand Straits Garden Seafood (Danga Bay), follow the signs to Gelang Patah to the flyover, follow kampong Sungai Danga, turn left to brown stone district when you see the signboard written Taman Laguna, go straight until you reach a transport circle, turn left to Jalan Seri Laguna 2 to the end.
Don’t hesitate, go to see, if you don’t want to regret.
      
地址: Kg sungai temon,taman perling,81200 johor
GPS : 1.459550, 103.704232


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