柔佛麻坡乌达-亚文

Muar Otak-Otak- Ah Boon

乌达(OTAK)是将鱼、虾或苏东起肉打混成溶浆、加入蛋液、盐、薯粉、椰浆、辣椒、黄姜粉及香料等，用汤匙舀进亞答叶,包裹成扁状。

Otak-Otak is a grilled fish cake made of ground fish meat or prawn meat, mixed with egg, salt, tapioca powder, coconut milk, chili and spices, use spoon to put in the mixture into Atap Leaves and wrapped into flat shape.

鱼肉一般是印尼马鲛鱼，有者用鳗鱼掺马鲛鱼浆是为减低成本，不可能用单一鱼肉作业。

The fish meat usually use Indonesia Mackerel fish, some of the shop mixed eel with mackerel fish to reduce the cost manufacture, did not prefer to use only one kind of fish meat.

在麻坡，售乌达最好生意的是阿汉阿嬷，即是汉记亞文的启蒙，目前，至于哪户乌达最好，除发源，郑美兰家族外，各说各是,给我好感，是往永平路中国银行前,交通灯兜进星星小食酒楼，直行到张振光羽球场，对面的158号门牌亞文乌达。

In muar, the another story is the earliest shop which sold otak-otak is Hang Kee, this inspired Ah Boon. At present, which shop sell the best otak-otak, nothing is concluded. But in my opinion, I think the best otak-otak came from Ah Boon which number plate is 158. Straight forward to Yong Peng Road, turn left when you see a trafiic light near to China Bank,  turn again into Star Restaurant, walk straight, you will see Ah Boon that opposite a badminton court.

老板陈文送卅年前因贫困，从建筑转卖叻沙。第二代陈志强、燕琳母亲林惠才在不甚理想开始转售乌达，且坚持现做、现包、现烤、现卖。举个例，当做好乌达入冰柜，解冻重烤，就像鲜鱼雪藏重烧，始不及新鲜有口感，味也会跑，不管蒸鱼还是鱼丸，道理相同。有人为省工用现成鱼浆掺粉，制出肯定没嚼劲。

Boss Mr Tan because of poverty, he selling Laksa before, they started to sell Otak-otak by second generation. They persist in doing cook for immediate consumption. For example, if Otak-otak put into refrigerator, thaw the frozen otak-otak before re-roasted, just like fresh fish re-burned, not fresh anymore. Regardless of steamed fish or fish ball, the same principle. Some people use ready-mixed fish paste to make Otak-otak, certainly not chewy and no texture.

亚文甚至还遗下家训，即使创办人不在，秘方、材料不可改、为好赚、省工，且定要维持现在水平，因是长期经验下的完美杰作。

Ah Boon also pass a family’s traditional injunction to his child, even the founder is passed away, the ingredient, material cannot be changed, have to maintain the current level, because it is the perfect masterpiece under long-term of research and experiences.

亞文秘方除在乌达材料有南姜、辣椒、辣椒干、香茅、姜花、黄姜、蒜头、葱头、大葱、咖喱叶、盐糖外，吊味取祛风三姜花，并坚持使用巴冬海域本地马鲛鱼，求的是今日捕获新鲜。贪有质感、肉厚弹劲够，以辣椒调味，懂吃，便知输赢，麻坡第一，不敢说，但在我嘴巴称霸，毫无疑问。

Ingredient of Otak-otak made by Ah Boon include galangal, chili, dried chili, lemongrass, ginger flower, turmeric, green onions, curry leaves, salt and sugar, main seasoning is ginger lily and persist to use Parit Jawa mackerel fish, today’s capture fish, fresh definitely. Texture, flesh is thick and elastic, seasoning by pepper. Try and you will know which is the best, I am not dare to say Ah Boon got the first price in Muar, but it dominate in my mouth, no doubt.

这种小食除味道偏向潮州娘惹，马来西亚有外，北部泰国、南印尼只能算类似。由麻坡华人打出名堂，马来同胞跟着学，但主要还是华族在卖。2009年，国家遗产局，把这种小食乌达，标签为国家级代表，甚至冲出本土，走向海外。

This kind of food only Malaysia Have, the otak-otak in Thailand, Indonesia are similar dishes. National Heritage department list in Muar otak-otak into cultural heritage in year 2009, marked as food represent Malaysia and well-known to overseas. 

亚文乌达

158，TAMAN UTAMA SATU ,JALAN SAKEH ,84000 MUAR JOHOR 

马来西亚最原始的井窑烧猪

Malaysia most primitive charcoal kiln roasted pig

第一次，在芙蓉盧骨，看到人家这样烧猪，哇塞     

用砖砌成个圆井，盖了两大片屋顶用的铁皮，火烧起木柴，先是冒大烟，随后井口还懂喷火。

主人家石文光用根长长铁锄头，推着坑下炭堆，烧起了生猪。且时不时掀开铁皮，用电筒照，到底在干什么？怕烧坏了猪！

That was the first time I saw people roasted pig like this. Wow! A well made by brick, covered with 2 pieces of iron sheet, the firewood burned, smoke appear and “eruption”.   The founder used a long iron hoes, pushing the charcoal and always open the iron sheet and see through the well with flashlight. Why he do that? Afraid of the pig overcooked.     

      

第一轮，用铁钩钓上半生熟猪，还是澄澄皮光亮亮。冲凉，降温！

这便是老祖宗的广东烧法，传到南洋。只差在各家用的淮盐、五香、酱料和很难说的秘密外，大致相同。

待猪退烧后，再用针刺外皮，插小洞洞，那是为防止烧出大泡泡，损坏烧猪皮。那时可就不值钱，SAYANG，可惜.

First round, hooked up the pig, the skin of pig became shinny and bright. Showers the pig skin, make it cool down. This was Cantonese burning method that passed from our ancestor in Canton, it is just slightly different on the salt, spices, sauces that used in Malaysia. After the pig skin cool down, use needle to make hole on pig skin to prevent it formed burble on pig skin.

曾几何时，是谁这么聪明，在猪头插上两朵小红花，打扮得花枝招展，活脱发花痴。

记住，吃烧肉要烧后，即斩即吃。

After the roasted pig done, plug in red flowers on pig’s head. 

偷偷告诉大家，跟老板石家兴Kenny讨秘传的小妹子辣椒酱，那是主人家阿嫲的烧猪酱，点烧肉，正点，好东西需要衬托，就像明星也要配角。

Remember, when eat roasted pork, you may asked for some secret chili sauce from Boss Kenny, the chili sauce invented by boss’ s grandmom, eat with roasted pork, just amazing.

这是哪？就是我叫的烧肉村。早听闻那烧猪闻名，单是这条村，就有五户人家在做，亦只有兴记，还在继续使用炭窑，我敢敢说，即使在大馬，很难再找到第二家且第三代，用的，还是这带水，  圈养的本地猪，现宰现烧，这才是“好吃”的理由。

I called here as roasted pork village, I have been heard here famous in roasted pork, along this village, five shop sell for roasted pork. Only Heng Kee still using charcoal kiln. I dare to say, even in Malaysia, you could never found roasted pork shop that already passed three generation. The boss used local pig, cook immediately for consumption, this is the reason I choose him.

有篇英国大文豪Charles lamb 发表的烧猪论文 A dissertation upon roast pig  ，把我们骄傲的小烧猪，po到像朵花。说其芬芳如紫罗兰，又似无邪的小女生。女儿家嘛！就是女儿家， 难怪肉这么香。对我说，小乳猪又怎比得上这家人烤的大肥猪，有猪味，还得那么烧，这么弄，才够香。再要些烧猪油铺在饭上，放在焗炉“叮”,让油渗入饭中，出来淋点酱油，给点指天椒，比什么都Top Gong，不信？试试。

There is a  British writer Charles Lamb published an article about roasted pig “ A dissertation upon roast pig” , praised the little roast pig, he said it fragrance as violet, also like an innocent little girl. I think our big suckling pig more fragrance, asked for some pork oil to spread on the rice, bake in oven, baste with some soy sauce, eat with red cluster pepper, the best, do not believe? Try It.

全世界都有烧猪文化，除回教国家。

在马来西亚这回教世俗国，还能吃到跟以前一样，用橡胶木烧热砖窑让整条猪烘的均匀，实在太有文化了。

The whole world has a roast pig culture, except Muslim Country. In Malaysia, still could eat the traditional pork, roast evenly with rubber wood.

当今，唯有兴记，才能吃着这么原始的烤金猪。那块皮咬下，比烘干的饼干还干，还脆，皮下那层脂肪，会融在嘴里不融在手里，硬度咸淡适中，我SUMPAH发誓，即使过了十多个钟，这里乡下流行，还是脆卜卜，不后悔。

You only can eat the primitive roast suckling pork from Heng kee. Bite the roasted pig skin, as crispy as biscuit, the layer of fat under the pig skin will dissolve in your saliva, moderate hardness, I swear, even after 10 hours, the skin still crispy.

现在一切都讲究快速，环保，现代化，大家改用电烘房，太空炉，再过多几年，到时，  连柴都找不到，这味道相信会随之失传。说是人生必吃一次的烧猪，一点都不过分，错过了，呵呵，你还是要光顾回这家。投降吧！地球人。

Now everything is fast, environmentally friendly, modern, people start using firing drawing-chamber, electric oven, after few years, maybe you can never find a piece of firewood. This is the roasted pig that you have to eat once in your whole life.  If you miss, you still have to patronize back to this shop, surrender! Human .

SUPPORT!SUPPORT!

 （地址：）从南北大道拐进波德申大道，直往，看到一个盧骨的告示牌转入，弯出市区，他的烧猪厂就在警察局对面的坟场小路进，警察局对面的CALTEX 油站侧对面马路那辆VAN车就是他最早的门市部。一切都那么传统。后来，据可靠消息透露， 新店在NO33A, Ground Floor, Jalan PPLU 2, Pusat Perniagaan Lukut Utama, 71010 Pork Dickson, Negeri Sembilan, Malaysia. 去找，值得探险。

营业时间 Business hour：6.00a.m.- 3.00p.m. ( BBQ pork start selling from 6.00a.m.-12.00 Noon )

Address: From North-South Expressway turn into Pork Dickson highway, walk straight, turn in when you see Lukut Signboard,  out of the city, turn into the small road near to cemetery opposite the police station. The Caltex petrol station which opposite to the road, near to it have a van is his earliest shops. Now the new shop at NO33A, Ground Floor, Jalan PPLU 2, Pusat Perniagaan Lukut Utama, 71010 Pork Dickson, Negeri Sembilan, Malaysia. Go and find it.